Pool maintenance for people who don't want a second job
Having a pool should feel like an upgrade to your lifestyle, not an additional weekly obligation. The problem is that pools don't tolerate the 'I'll deal with it later' approach. If you miss a couple of small tasks, it's not just a bit of dust that builds up — you get cloudy water, slippery walls, clogged baskets and equipment that has to work harder than it should.
The good news is that you don’t need to become a chemist or spend hours every weekend on this. All you need is a short, repeatable routine, a few simple checks and a calm plan for when something feels 'off'. This article is designed for busy schedules: minimal fuss, maximum stability.
Why pools go wrong — and why it's usually not 'random'.
Most pool problems don't happen suddenly. Instead, they develop in a predictable way.
- Organic load increases (leaves, pollen, dust, sunscreen, sweat).
- Sanitizer demand rises (hot weather, heavy swimming, storms).
- Circulation and filtration quietly fall behind (dirty filter, full baskets, short run time).
- Biofilm starts forming in low-flow areas (steps, corners, waterline).
When a few of these factors build up, the pool can change from 'fine' to 'why is it hazy?' overnight. The goal isn’t perfection; it's keeping the pool out of the danger zone by consistently performing small tasks.
The 20-minute weekly reset is your default routine.
Choose one day each week. Set a timer. Follow the same steps in the same order. This routine works because it's simple enough to actually follow!
1) Skim the surface for 2–3 minutes.
Surface debris is the easiest to remove. Anything that floats will eventually sink or be pulled into the system. Regular skimming keeps the pool looking clean and reduces the organic matter that uses up the sanitiser. After windy days, skimming can be the difference between stable water and spending a week chasing problems.
2) Empty the skimmer and pump baskets (this takes 3–4 minutes).
If the baskets are only half full, circulation will suffer. This leads to dead spots, uneven chemistry and increased strain on your pump. Although emptying the baskets is boring, it is one of the most effective tasks you can perform. It also prevents your filter from becoming clogged as quickly.
3) Brush the 'problem zones' for five minutes.
You don't need to brush every centimetre every week. Focus on the areas where algae tends to start growing.
- steps and ledges
- corners
- Around ladders and lights.
- the waterline
- Any area with a weak return flow.
Brushing breaks up the initial biofilm, allowing the sanitiser to work effectively. If the walls feel slippery or you see dusty 'puffs' when brushing, treat this as a warning and brush more thoroughly for the next week.
4) Quick vacuum or robot run (5–10 minutes).
If you have a robotic cleaner, let it do its job while you get on with other things. If not, quickly vacuuming the worst areas is enough. You don't need to achieve perfection — you just need to prevent settled debris from clouding the water when swimmers stir it up.
5) Test the 'Big Three' (2–3 minutes).
At a minimum, check:
- Sanitizer level (chlorine or equivalent)
- pH
- Visual clarity (and any unusual smell)
If the readings are steady and the water looks good, stop. Over-adjusting is a common cause of instability. When you do make an adjustment, only make one change at a time, circulate, and then re-test later.
Keep your kit simple so that you actually use it.
A 'minimal kit' is better than a garage full of half-used bottles. All you need is:
- A reliable test method: strips are quick, whereas a drop kit is more accurate.
- a decent brush
- A sturdy leaf net.
- A vacuum method (either manual or robotic)
Add one habit that pays off: take a photo of your filter pressure when the filter is clean. That number is your baseline. When pressure rises noticeably above baseline, your filter is loading up and performance drops.
Filtration and Circulation: The Silent Heroes
Even if a pool's chemistry is "decent", it can still look bad if the filtration system is failing. Filtration captures fine particles that cannot be skimmed off the surface. Circulation ensures that the sanitiser reaches all parts of the pool and that the water is moved through the filter.
These practical checks take seconds:
- Return jets: Do they feel weaker than usual?
- Surface movement: Is one area of the pool always still?
- Filter pressure: Higher than baseline usually means the filter is dirty.
- Baskets: Full baskets reduce flow immediately.
If your pool looks dull or hazy, but the water chemistry seems OK, suspect the filtration and circulation system first. Many so-called 'mystery' clarity issues are simply due to insufficient filtering for the current conditions.
Two habits that can prevent headaches:
Use a cover whenever possible.
A cover reduces debris, evaporation and heat loss. Fewer impurities mean less demand for sanitiser. Less evaporation means that the chemical composition changes more slowly. Using a cover even occasionally can cut maintenance time.
Don't leave fallen leaves lying around after a windy or stormy day.
Leaves aren’t just messy; they create chemical reactions and can stain surfaces if left for too long. One of the best “preventative” moves you can make is to quickly skim and check the basket after windy weather.
Why is my pool cloudy? A quick diagnosis (no guesswork).
Cloudiness usually falls into one of four categories. Work through them calmly.
Bucket A: Filtration/circulation issue
Signs: Haze that doesn’t improve after small chemical adjustments; weak jets; filter pressure elevated; baskets filling quickly.
Do this: Clean/backwash the filter (depending on type), empty baskets, check valves are correctly set, and run the pump longer until clarity improves.
Bucket B: Chemistry out of range
Signs: Eye/skin irritation, strong smell, sanitizer not “holding,” pH drifting.
Do this: Adjust pH into a sensible range for your pool system, then re-establish sanitizer. Make changes gradually and re-test—big swings can make water harder to stabilise.
Bucket C: Early algae (before it turns green)
Signs: Slight haze in warm weather, slippery walls, dust-like clouds when brushing.
Do this: Brush thoroughly, increase circulation, clean the filter, and bring sanitizer back on track. Catching algae early saves you from a full recovery job.
Bucket D: Too much “stuff” in the water
Signs: Heavy swimmer load, lots of sunscreen/body oils, dust events, storm runoff, nearby landscaping work.
Do this: Longer filtration time, a good clean, and (when appropriate based on testing) extra oxidation/shock. The key is to support the filter by removing what it’s trying to catch.
The “don’t do this” list (common mistakes)
- Don’t add random products because the water “looks weird.” Test first.
- Don’t ignore pH. If pH drifts, sanitizer becomes less effective and comfort suffers.
- Don’t over-clean but under-run the pump. Cleaning without adequate filtration time is like mopping with a dirty bucket.
- Don’t chase perfect numbers daily. Stability beats micromanagement.
A realistic weekly schedule (what “consistent” actually looks like)
If you want a simple baseline that fits normal life:
- Once a week: Do the 20-minute reset (skim, baskets, brush zones, vacuum/robot, Big Three test).
- After wind/storms: Quick skim + basket check the same day.
- When pressure rises above baseline: Clean/backwash the filter.
- During heat waves or heavy swim weeks: Add one extra test day and run the pump longer.
This approach enables you to stay proactive without making the pool your hobby.
When DIY stops being effective.
Sometimes, capability isn't the issue — it's a matter of time and confidence. Consider getting a professional check when:
- Despite a steady routine, the pool repeatedly drifts out of balance.
- You suspect there are issues with the equipment (e.g. a noisy pump, air in the system or weak flow).
- You've experienced a storm and want to start afresh.
- Are you preparing for guests, an inspection or a property handover? Do you want consistency?
If you’re in Melbourne and would like a quick “check-and-reset” without turning it into a lengthy sales conversation, a one-off visit focused on water balance could save you time and prevent stress to the surface and equipment. A practical option is professional water testing and balancing.
Seasonal rhythm: the same routine, different emphasis
Pools aren’t static. Your routine stays the same, but what matters most shifts:
- Hot periods: Sanitizer demand rises; brushing and filtration time matter more.
- Rain and storms: Debris and runoff spike; baskets and filters load quickly.
- Cooler months: You can often reduce run time, but keep water moving and chemistry stable so problems don’t grow slowly in the background.
The aim isn't to fight the season; it's to embrace it.
The takeaway: make it boring and your pool will stay beautiful.
The most effective pool maintenance plan is the one that you will actually follow. Keep it short. Be consistent. Familiarise yourself with your baselines (clean filter pressure, normal clarity and typical pH drift). When something changes, don't panic — use a decision tree: clean, circulate, test and adjust.
Perform the weekly reset and respond quickly after windy or stormy weather, and most 'pool disasters' will be avoided. This way, your pool will stay what it should be: a place to relax, not another item on your to-do list.
